Posljednjih dana elita modne industrije okupirala je ulice Milana – u talijanskoj prijestolnici mode prikazane su muške kolekcije za 2025. godinu i možemo reći da je Tjedan muške mode i ove godine pokazao snagu. Već nekoliko sezona za redom muška moda je u procvatu, a ovih dana impresioniralo nas je nekoliko brendova.
Vidjeli smo drugu Gucci mušku kolekciju otkako brend vodi Sabato De Sarno, a sve oči bile su uprte i prema londonskoj dizajnerici Martine Rose koja je prvi puta imala prezentaciju u Milanu i nije razočarala kolekcijom koja je inspirirana rave partyjima i sportskim elementima – estetikom na kojoj je izgradila snažan brend. Vodeći dizajneri traže bijeg od sumorne stvarnosti pa su se rave, party kultura, mladenački zanos i lakoća življenja kao tema provukli kroz nekoliko kolekcija. Raf Simons ovoga se puta više osjetio u Prada kolekciji, a vidjeli smo i puno jako dobrih outwear komada, kožnih jakni i upečatljivih boja.
Prada
Mladenački optimizam je okosnica Pradine kolekcije, a Miuccia Prada i Raf Simons odlučili su manje razmišljati, a više spontano djelovati, što je rezultiralo vibrantnom kolekcijom naziva Closer – koja tematizira stvarnost i iluziju, a stvari u kolekciji izgledaju drugačije tek kada im se približite.
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Poigrali su se optičkim iluzijama kroz hlače na kojima je print remena, pulovere u dvije boje koji čine izgled polo ovratnika, trompe-l’œil prisutan je i kod pulovera prugastog uzorka, a zanimljivo su izgledali komadi s prepeglanim naborima.
![Tjedan muške mode Prada](https://buro247.hr/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/Prada-m-S25-016-683x1024.jpg)
Efektan dio kolekcije su sunčane naočale na čijim su lećama printani motivi ulice, horizonta ili nekog partyja koji će vas natjerati da se zapitate što je zaista stvarno. Torbe u obliku bowling modela izgledaju kao nešto o čemu bismo mogli dugo maštati, a Prada najavljuje i snažne boje te utility kombinezone s naglašenim zipovima u drugoj nijansi kojima su zatvorili kolekciju. Logo je sveden na minimum – vidljiv je tek u izrezima u obliku trokuta koji se pojavljuje s prednje i stražnje strane pulovera. If you know, you know.
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Martine Rose
Za londonsku dizajnericu ovo je prva kolekcija koju je prikazala u Milanu i pobrinula se da ostane zapamćena. Moto u sukobu s nogometnom estetikom te korporativni elementi dio su subverzivne kolekcije prikazane u mračnom okruženju koje odaje dojam kao da se modeli vraćaju s rave partyja.
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Rose je jedna od najjačih imena nove generacije dizajnera, a kroz dizajn ističe supkulture, multinacionalnost, punk i rave scenu – isti motivi pojavili su se u muškoj kolekciji za 2025. Martine Rose poslala je modele na pistu s protetikom nosa jer je, kako govori, u potrazi za ljepotom te je na misiji propitkivanja klasičnog standarda ljepote.
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Haljine i suknje u kolekciji dobile su zakrpe, prisutan je utjecaj motorističke estetike kroz robusne kožne komade, vidjeli smo i sportske dresove smanjenih proporcija i spajanje “nespojivih stilova” u spretan streetwear look.
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JW Anderson
Kod igre proporcijama, trenutno ne postoji bolji od Jonathana Andersona koji je donio još jednu kreativnu kolekciju – otvorio je s lookovima prevelikih prošivenih jakni, a zatim je nastavio igru s prošivenim detaljima koji nalikuju na jastuk.
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Kravate su bile naglašene, majice i jakne u maslac nijansama izgledale su napuhano i skulpturalno, a u cijelom nadrealnom svijetu ovakvih komada primijetili smo odlične nosive jakne s naglašenim volanima, traper hlače s detaljem kopče remena i asimetrične haljine poput one crne koja se pojavila pred kraj kolekcije.
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Nadrealni motivi ovoga puta dolazili su iz snova ili sjećanja – džemperi su ukrašeni Guinnessom koji ga podsjeća na odrastanje u Sjevernoj Irskoj, a pletiva su nosila motive kućica u nizu. S Andersonom nikada ne može biti dosadno i očekivano.
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Gucci
Sabato De Sarno voli dobar kaput i to pokaže svakom novom kolekcijom.Ovu mušku otvorio je jedan od sjajne kože u primamljivoj zelenoj nijansi, a zatim je uslijedio onaj u nježno ružičastoj nijansi. Izgleda kao da je napokon pronašao svoje mjesto i smjer u kojem vodi Gucci, a ovom muškom kolekcijom jasno je definirao estetiku u mladog frajera kojeg zamišlja u Gucciju.
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Dok su se kolekcijom ponavljaju kaputi i nekoliko konkretnih kožnih jakni u bojama, Sarno je fokus usmjerio na mladenačku i surfersku estetiku, ali na profinjeniji način. Rupičaste majice nošene su s kratkim hlačicama, vidjeli smo komplete s grafički izvedenim motivima mora i ljeta, a hlače u stilu bokserica vodeći su komad sezone – nema tko nije primijetio Paula Mescala u prvom redu revije u sassy kombinaciji kratkih hlačica i plave košulje.
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Kao i u prethodnim kolekcijama, svakodnevne komade ukrasio je izvezenim kristalima i detaljima koji podižu dojam i čine ih luksuznim komadom. Volimo!
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